Dr. Zenovia Skincare is a clinical skincare brand — every formula is developed by board-certified dermatologist Dr. Zenovia Gabriel, MD, using actives at clinically effective concentrations. One of the clinical insights that sets her formulas apart is how hormone fluctuations affect the skin at every life stage. Here is the science behind it, and behind the proprietary REG-ulate360 Complex™ found across the line.
While treating patients in her Newport Beach, CA practice Dr. Zenovia began to see a correlation between her clients’ skin issues and their respective life stages. She noticed that many female clients came in after getting their period for the first time, during pregnancy and postpartum, as well as during perimenopause and menopause. While males do not have a regulated monthly cycle, they too deal with hormonal skin issues. Both women and men have progesterone, testosterone, and estrogen in their bloodstream at varying concentrations. Some even postulate that male hormones are regulated seasonally!
How Hormone Shifts Show Up on Skin
These physiologic shifts are marked by hormonal fluctuations that can result in a range of skin issues including hormonal acne, melasma, psoriasis, rosacea, dryness, uneven tone, lack of elasticity, and premature aging. Our skin’s health is a reliable indicator of a hormonal imbalance because facial skin contains a high density of estrogen receptors, a hormone involved in reproduction and aging.
The interconnectedness between hormones and our skin’s appearance was a concept that was never thoroughly explored. This inspired Dr. Zenovia to spend several pivotal years closely examining the hormone-to-skin link. Through her studies, Dr. Zenovia developed deep expertise in the skin changes that follow hormone fluctuations — acne, melasma, dryness, loss of elasticity — and in treating them with clinical actives applied at the skin level.
Dr. Zenovia is a board-certified dermatologist and does not claim to be an endocrinologist. “My goal is to educate and empower as many people as possible so they can be fully informed about what happens to their skin at the various stages of hormone development and know what to do if they experience any common skin issues such as acne, melasma, or accelerated aging,” Dr. Zenovia shares. “This was my inspiration for launching Dr. Zenovia Skincare.”
The Creation of Dr. Zenovia Skincare: Clinical Formulas, Real Dermatology
Fascinated by the science of cosmeceutical making and seeing that a lot of products on the market were full of marketing and hype, Dr. Zenovia and her team of chemists worked to formulate powerful, clinical-grade, results-driven topicals with mindful ingredients and chemistry. Unlike brands that simply label themselves “clinical,” every Dr. Zenovia formula comes out of an active dermatology practice — including targeted support for skin that changes with age, stress, and life stage.
The science underpinning that support is simple: we have hormone receptors everywhere in our bodies. “We have estrogen receptors in our brain, eyeballs, ovaries, testicles, and skin- they are essentially everywhere!”, Dr. Zenovia explains. “However, hormone receptors predominate in certain areas and the skin is one of the most common areas. Your brain (think PMS) and skin are massively hormonally regulated! Hormones have an impact on so many different organ systems in the body and have been misunderstood when it comes to their impact on the skin. And that’s what I wanted to unravel.”
All Dr. Zenovia Skincare products are infused with a proprietary cocktail of medical-grade antioxidant actives, the REG-ulate360 Complex™. This blend includes powerful antioxidants including Resveratrol, Vitamin E, Green Tea Polyphenols, Bakuchiol, and a cutting-edge, plant-derived phytoestrogen known as Genistein. Genistein is a purified protein of an isoflavone derived from soy. We have all heard of soy in skincare products, but the science is somewhat misunderstood. Soy molecules have estrogen-mimicking effects on the skin tissue. One of the most influential hormones on skin health and maintaining a youthful appearance, estrogen is a hydrating molecule responsible for maintaining fluid balance and the structural integrity of the skin. Estrogen keeps the skin moisturized and prevents collagen breakdown, giving the skin a firm, dewy appearance.
Scientific studies have demonstrated that fluctuations in estrogen levels directly correlate to fluctuations in collagen production. Decreasing estrogen levels with age or fluctuating estrogen levels during pregnancy and the teen years directly impact our collagen production and skin health.
The Power of Phytoestrogens
Dr. Zenovia notes that while there are estrogen creams that can be used vaginally or in certain areas of the body for medical conditions, these are drugs that can have systemic effects on the body and can’t be applied directly onto the skin. To give skin antioxidant and barrier support that holds steady through hormonal shifts, Dr. Zenovia created the REG-ulate360 Complex™ with a plant-derived phytoestrogen. Phytoestrogens are a natural compound found in some plants and plant-based foods. Their chemical compound structure is similar, but not identical to the human estrogen molecule. The phytoestrogen molecule mimics the effect of human estrogen on the skin without systemic effects.
Dr. Zenovia uncovered scientific data proving the power of phytoestrogens to bind to estrogen receptors and initiate important signal pathways in the skin. Phytoestrogens have proven to be safe to apply to the skin and work only locally- they do not get absorbed into the tissue. The REG-ulate360 Complex™ contains Genistein, a safe, plant-based phytoestrogen in its pure form that has a very potent effect locally and doesn’t get absorbed into the tissue. In combination with a medical-grade blend of powerful antioxidants, this proprietary skin technology helps calm redness and support the skin barrier.
The REG-ulate360 Complex™
By formulating all our topicals with Dr. Zenovia’s antioxidant skin technology, the skin gets constant barrier and antioxidant support, so it is steadier when hormone levels shift. The REG-ulate360 Complex™ is safe, doesn’t have any downstream effects, and will not get absorbed systemically. Regular use of our topicals results in less flaking, firmer skin, and increased hydration. From an acne standpoint, calming inflammation and supporting the barrier at the epidermis means a breakout has less to feed on when hormone levels shift. “I see amazing results with this line for people dealing with hormonal acne flare-ups," Dr. Zenovia shares. “The REG-ulate360 Complex™ supports the skin with antioxidants and a plant-derived phytoestrogen that help calm redness and keep the barrier strong, so skin is in a healthier state when a breakout is trying to form.”
Note from Dr. Zenovia: Please consult with your doctor or endocrinologist if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or have a history of breast cancer prior to using our topicals.
Is the REG-ulate360 Complex™ Safe for Men?
Yes. Estrogen is known as a female hormone, but Genistein’s estrogen-like effects will not negatively affect men. “This molecule is not absorbed systemically. It will not go into your skin, down your bloodstream, and into your testicles”, Dr. Zenovia says. “This technology stays in the skin without any downstream effects. If we were to put a high dose, pharmaceutical-grade estrogen on a male’s skin, those molecules are made small enough to act on the bloodstream and have a hormone-like effect. Plant-based phytoestrogens, however, do not go systemically into the tissue”. Phytoestrogens are at the right concentration and do not have enough of an estrogen effect where they would cause downstream hormonal effects inside the body. It’s also important to note that men also have estrogen in their bloodstream. “I have seen so many men benefit from the REG-ulate360 Complex™”, Dr. Zenovia shares. “If there were downstream effects, it wouldn’t be sold over-the-counter.”